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Paint Stripping
MRT's Chemicals at work
After the 1st dip is done:
   
   
What are the other alternatives for stripping paint?
There are a number of alternatives for paint
removal most though damage the metal you are trying to save. Or if
they are safe for the metal they require more labor than is feasible
for large parts. Also there are other materials which require
additional processes to strip like under seal for which the strip
and clean discs would be rubbish. Here are my thoughts on various
ways of stripping:
Sand /Media blasting Damage
to metal surface
Most people that do sandblasting use great big high pressure rigs
so an even greater chance of bending panels. Anyone looking at
blasting thin metal seems to use media blasting instead using things
like walnut shells or plastic beads.
Having said that, low pressure shot blasting using grit works
really well on thin panels, but is slow. See
DIY
sandblasting.
Chemical dipping (acid dipping)
I had planned to have the whole car dipped. But dipping removes
all paint even from inside inaccessible box sections. Most cars
built after 1980 will have been paint dipped during manufacture, and
it's a shame to remove all the paint the manufacturer has added to
all those inaccessible box sections (especially as it would be
impossible to get new paint back in). Others have raised concerns
that it's difficult to wash out all the acid after dipping, and acid
in my seams was the last thing I wanted.
Some companies offer an e-coating (primer dipping) service after
chemical dipping, but the price for stripping the Renault and having
it e-coated would be $3,000. That's more than the car will be worth.
Wire brushes Damage to metal surface
Wire brushes work well when used with paint stripper, though
there's a lot of cleaning up of the residue to do afterwards, and
finishing off with wire wool and paint stripper. The wire brush
attachment works well for plastic under seal or anti-stone chip
though. Especially when the plastic stuff has been softened using a
heat gun. It's a messy job though, and I tend to alternate between
the wire brush and an old table knife (both used with the heat gun)
for that sort of work.
A hand held wire brush is handy for using with paint stripper if
there is a lot of paint in a fiddly area. Though again that needs to
be finished off with wire wool.
Sanding discs Damage to metal surface
More abrasive than the strip disc and prone to clogging. Good for
finishing
welds though.
Wire wool Damage to metal surface
I use stainless steel wire wool. It's available in big rolls from
exhaust suppliers. Be careful of the stuff though. I used to tear
wire wool from the roll before a single strand decided to slice
through my finger rather than tear off. Now I use scissors to cut it
from the roll. In conjunction with paint stripper it's a great way
of removing thin paint, or the remainder from tricky spots after
some other paint removal process.
Heat gun
Can easily damage thin metal parts.
Paint stripper
Very caustic, expensive, labor intensive and time consuming.
All of the above mentioned methods are not feasible for use in
the business of paint removal.
NOW MRT's Eco Friendly methods
2 stage dip
NO
Damage to metal surface
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MRT's
Immersion process
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First step chemically
removes all paint, mastics, body fillers, and seam sealers.
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The Second step washes
away all rust corrosion from steel and oxide from aluminum.
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"The end result is paint line
ready metal without altering, harming or activating the
substrate"
Removes Rust, Paint, Fillers &
Sealers
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Cleans all surfaces, seams, voids
and unreachable areas.
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Does not alter, harm or activate
metal substrate.
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Metal surface is clean and ready
to paint.
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Leaves no seed rust.
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Works on Steel Aluminum,
Non-ferrous metals.
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Car and Truck bodies and metal
panels.
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Nuts and Bolts
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Bi-Metal Parts "with no harm to
both metals and no teardown needed"
Advantages of MRT’s process over traditional
methods
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NO Chemical
process damage
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NO Sand/Media
Blasting
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NO Reverse
Plating
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NO Chemical
loss of temper
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NO Re-rust or
bleed-out
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